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The Naval Mountaineering team led by Lt Amit Pande (04596 W) returned to New Delhi after scaling a virgin and unnamed peak (6560 mts/21,648 ft) in the Pangong Range of East Ladakh. The modest height of the peak is more than adequately compensated by perpendicular gradients, overhangs, cornices and mixed ice/rock climbs The peak is extremely difficult and technically challenging in nature, which was the primary reason for it's being unclimbed till date.
The team departed Delhi on 17 Sep 04, and travelled to the road head at Parma in East Ladakh via Leh and Tangtse. The road winded across the cold Ladakhi desert for around 200 Km and over 'Chang La' (17,800 ft), the third highest motorable pass in the world to reach Parma. The Base camp (BC) was established near Parma on September 24 at an altitude of 14,685 ft. Winters set in early in Ladakh and the temperatures were already below freezing point when the team reached BC. The next few days were spent in load sorting and working out of rations and technical equipment. Unlike other mountains there was no data available for the peak as there had been no ascent earlier. Detailed recce was hence of paramount importance. Recce/load ferrying to Advance Base Camp (ABC) was commenced on September 26.
The route to ABC snaked along a dry nullah (Niyunguk Lungpa in Ladakhi) over an extremely loose rubble of scree and shale. It took seven to eight hrs from the BC to reach ABC which was right under a small glacier. After few days of hectic load ferrying 06 members shifted to ABC at an altitude of 18,315 ft. The water points had already frozen and the members were required to melt hard ice for making water. The route thereafter continued along the true left bank of the glacier. There were continuous rockfalls enroute and members had to take full precautions to avoid accidental hits. The glacier is about 1/2 km wide, 4 km long and surrounded by high peaks on all sides. The peak was attempted from the NW face. Camp 1 was established at an altitude of 18,645 ft on the glacier at the bottom of the NW face. Rope fixing/route opening was commenced soon after. The conditions were difficult with very hard ice (blue and black in colour) and gradients of 70-80 degrees. It took five days to open the route till the summit saddle. Rough weather along with heavy snowfall and blizzards were encountered during route opening and the team had to retire to ABC for few days. Members encountered minimum temperatures of - 35 Deg C. The summit attempt was made on October 09. The team left ABC at 2.30 am and Six members summitted at 3.30 pm. The team returned to ABC the same day around 8.30 pm and to BC on 11 October. C1 and ABC were wound up by October 13. The team left BC on Oct 14 and arrived New Delhi via Tangtse, Leh and Chandigarh on PM 19 Oct.
The Navy has now suggested the name "Konjuk Tsoo" (Water God in Ladakhi language) for the peak to permanently mark it's first ascent and Navy's achievement on the Northern "shores" of India. An official notification to the effect will be issued by the 'Survey of India' and the 'Indian Mountaineering Foundation' in due course of time.
The Naval Mountaineering Team in accordance with mountaineering ethics also took all steps to preserve the ecology and the environment of the area. No garbage was dumped and all non biodegradable rubbish was brought back. Many rare birds like the 'Black Necked Cranes' were also sighted by the Naval team.
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Summiteers |
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Support Team |
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Lt Amit Pande |
Leader |
Lt S Desh Mukh
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Surg Lt Viking Bhanu |
MO |
K Chamoli, Sea I
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SS Kanna, MAA |
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SDP Mishra, RO I
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Vikas Kumar, POMA |
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| Navin Kumar, LME |
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| Hari Om, Sea II |
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